Panos
Panos from the years:
These are all put together using Autostitch.
(And yeah, that's right, my first post in months, and I don't write anything.)
Labels: European travel, London tourism, photos, pictures, travel, UK travel
Panos from the years:
Labels: European travel, London tourism, photos, pictures, travel, UK travel
This week, I'm going to have to spend a large portion of my Time At Work doing end-of-year roundups -- effectively rehashed stories reminding people what happened over the past 12 months. On one hand, they're a useful review and I don't mind writing them, on the other hand, they're hit-whoring spacefiller (not unlike this blog???).
Labels: Canada travel, European travel, flight, Obama, UK travel, US travel

And while on the subject of things which are beachfront and pretty, here's some pics from Lyme, which I'm yet to post about. It's like White Rock, but literary. More pics here.

This weekend, Mary and I did our Jane Austen pilgrimage, visiting the author's home in Chawton, where she was buried in Winchester, and the setting of one of her novels, Lyme Regis.
Logistically, cramming such travel into a weekend was a nightmare, requiring several planning calls to Network Rail -- a nightmare in of itself.
On Saturday morning, after an hour of tube battles (Northern Line has engineering works, yet again, and I needed to pick up tickets from Kings Cross -- heaven forbid they have ticket pickup machines south of the fucking river), I met Mary at Waterloo station, where we caught a train to Woking where we changed for Alton. From there, we cabbed it to Chawton for Jane's house before returning to Alton station to catch a bus to Winchester. After wandering about that city, we caught a train to Basingstoke, where we changed lines again for the two-hour journey to Axminster, where we caught a bus to Lyme Regis.
It was a long day. But, being completely awesome, we planned it as near to perfect as is possible, and never waited more than about ten minutes for transport, which I think is pretty damned impressive.
Enough about transport. The first destination was Chawton, the town where Austen rewrote/wrote her novels. It's a typically cute and quaint English town, and the local residents (for whatever reason) have recently been battling a new development of a dozen new homes, our cab driver told us. The developers eventually won out (as they tend to do) but either in deference to tourism or in way of apology to the local or just being a bit cheesy, they named this new estate "Pemberley". Hee.
Jane's home there was a cottage on her brother's estate. A big squarish brick building, with a rather lovely garden, it is Janeite mecca. But because it was lived in up until the 1940s, it's not preserved accurately to her era. Still, as Mary and I agreed, visiting the site is more pilgramage and paying homage than educational.
We weren't the only ones feeling that way. After winding ourselves through the various rooms -- the kitchen with the infamous creaky door, Jane and her sister Cassandra's bedroom, the gift shop -- we came to a small alcove where a letter written by Cassandra after the death of her sister had been posted up along a wall. Sent to a relation announcing Jane's passing, it is a moving remebrance of the last days of the author's life -- a beautiful and moving eulogy, even more poignant given Cassandra was not allowed to attend the funeral of her beloved sister. (Stupid ovaries, getting in the way again.)
Two fellow visitors were standing in front of this document. One of the women was reading it, while the other was writing down one section onto a scrap of paper. Both were crying. I do not mean a few tears welling up at the corner of their eyes. I mean bawling. Now, maybe they just lost someone close to them, and Cassandra's heartfelt words struck too close to their own emotions. Who knows. But much as I love Austen -- and think I would have truly liked her -- I can't mourn the loss of someone so long gone. It is very sad she died in pain at a young age, but even if she'd lived to be 103, she'd still be long dead by the time Mary slid her extra copy of Pride and Prejudice into my Gauntlet mailbox back in the day (with the words "Hope you enjoy" scrawled on a post it on the front cover).
After the visit to Austen's creative home, we spent a short time in her everlasting one -- the city of Winchester, where she's buried.
Like so many cities in this country, the focus of Winchester is a grand cathedral. Austen is presumably buried in the crypt, as there's a memorial stone laid in the church. I'm assuming she didn't gain such an honour from her literature -- she published anonymously; stupid ovaries -- but maybe because her father was a rector or her family gave enough money (it's discussed briefly here). This is reflected in the message on the memorial stone -- there's no mention of her being an author at all.
Many years later, the church rectified this apparent error by placing a rather ostentatious (and decidedly not Austentatious) shiny bronze memorial nearby. I can understand why, but it suggests fans wouldn't realise this was Jane's grave without being smacked shinely over the head with it. And really, how important is one's profession in death? Her body of work, her novels, are a grand memorial (despite not being shiny). Will my tombstone read: Nicole, Staff Writer? Will Mary's be carved with the words "English Professor"? Doubtful.
To her family, who wrote the inscription on the original stone marker, she was a loving daughter, sister and aunt. And to me, a memorial showing that side of her life is much more touching. Besides, if I want to remember her as an author, all I need do is pull one of her novels from my shelf...
This is what it says, if you're curious:
After spending £5 and about ten minutes visiting the cathedral, we headed to Lyme Regis, which features in Persuasion. I've previously been to Bath, which also features in Persuasion, and it is actually pretty cool to see what the hell Austen's going on about.In Memory of JANE AUSTEN, youngest daughter of the late Revd GEORGE AUSTEN, formerly Rector of Steventon in this County. She departed this Life on the 18th of July1817, aged 41, after a long illness supported with the patience and hopes of a Christian.
The benevolence of her heart, the sweetness of her temper, and the extraordinary endowments of her mind obtained the regard of all who knew her and the warmest love of her intimate connections.
Their grief is in proportion to their affection they know their loss to be irreparable, but in their deepest affliction they are consoled by a firm though humble hope that her charity, devotion, faith and purity have rendered her soul acceptable in the
sight of her REDEEMER.
Labels: UK travel
Got some photos developed, so here's a pile of pony pics from the trip to the New Forest...







In part two of the surely-to-be-multipart Distracting Day-trip Diversions series, Emily and I went to Oxford.
JRR Tolkein used to sit out here
and think of hobbits... how dirty...
Anyway, we saw where Emily went to school -- her college, Merton, is a lovely set of old buildings with courtyards and gardens and all that britishness. It's also where JRR Tolkein studied and taught. It's also where Kris Kristofferson and TS Eliot studied. Ahh, such history.
I had great fun comparing Merton to the good ol' U of C. Emily noted -- unpretentiously, I assure you -- that the school dates from the 1200s. I noted that the U of C dates from the 1960s. Her college, including grad students, is made up of about 130 students. I've had classes with three times that number. She pointed out the grand old exams building, and the amazing hall they graduate in, and the beautiful courtyard where they got their gowns prior to the ceremony. Me, I pointed out where all these things happened while at the U of C: the gym, another gym, and the running track around the oval.
And okay, I admit: pretty architechture and ridiculous tradition are not the cornerstones of a good education. But then, neither is cramming students into lecture halls the size of movie theatres and hoping against all hope that they maybe learn something, as long as it's cheap. /end rant
Then we went to a museum of natural history (full of hella awesome Victorian-era dead-and-stuffed things) and an art museum. Good times had in both. Then we got drunk and openly mocked 18-year-old girls for wearing heels they couldn't walk in. Then we felt old, so we went home.
This is so Tim Burton. The Victorians
were so awesomely crazy.
While waiting at the station for the train to speed us (ha! it took three times as long as the train that took us out there!) back to London, a man walked by wearing no trousers -- he was dressed normally on top, but just sheerish brown underwear on the bottom.
He walked right past us, spoke to a station attendent like nothing was weird, and then (thankfully) got on a train going the other direction.
It's especially strange because I kept thinking: That man has no pants. It's like the no-pants dance floor. But here in Bizarro World, pants=underwear, so in fact he was wearing pants, just not much else. So a no-pants dance floor here would be a scary, scary thing indeed. Just a warning should anyone (looks -- um, virtually -- in Kris' direction) decide to shout out "No Pants Dance Floor!" in a London club. Just saying.
Wow, that last paragraph probably makes so little sense to anyone who isn't me. Well. Sucks to be you, then.
More pictures here.
So I really needed to get out of London this weekend, even just for the day, to get some air and chill out and be alone. It's decidedly hard to be alone in this city -- lonely is easy, but being actually physically alone is very difficult.
Bernard Cornwell , the author of the Sharpe series, is doing a mini book tour (mini tour, not small books) of
While he did come to
I arrived with a few hours to kill, and having already done what touristy shiznit interested me on last year’s Jane Austen pilgrimage, I just walked around, taking pics, as usual (more here ).
When I got to the bookstore for the talk, I was surprised it wasn’t packed. The one in
Rather than read from the book, as was advertised, Cornwell rambled on in amusing fashion, describing his hobby of touring historical battlefields, and making jokes about how we should all buy all of his several dozen books.
Because the series was not written in chronological order, parts don’t always make sense, which seems to really amuse him. He finds himself having to kill off any new characters he creates, as they obviously don’t show up in the “next” book. And why does Sharpe never mention he fought at Trafalgar? Oh, because he was traumatized he just can’t speak of it. Um, yes.
Cornwell spoke a lot about Sean Bean – who plays Sharpe in the TV series – and told some amusing stories about how grumpy Bean is in rehearsal. Apparently, he rehearses like shit. Comes in grumbling, grumbles through his lines, but when it’s time to shoot, he’s spot on.
Also rather amusing… Bean was not the first actor cast, but rather a last minute replacement. Lucky them. But the first actor was much smaller than Bean, and they didn’t have time to get new costumes for the first few weeks. So all those shots of Sharpe with his shirt unbuttoned in the first episode, those were because he actually couldn’t do the shirt up.
Cornwell said that when he’s writing, the characters sometimes “speak to him”, in his head. But with Sharpe, that voice has since turned into that of Sean Bean’s, so now Cornwell sometimes wakes up to Bean’s voice. Some guy in the front row took the cue: “My wife would like that!"
The TV series was the focus of much of the discussion; for many people, they’d have been much happier if Sean Bean had been there and not Cornwell.
While that would have depressed the hell out of me, Cornwell didn’t seem to mind. He told us his least favourite episode – and this is no surprise – is Sharpe’s Gold, which is insane and features Aztecs… in
And when asked if there’d be another show (not if he would write another Sharpe book…) he told the early-20s girl that even if they don’t make another film, she’ll always have Sean-Bean-as-Sharpe in her dreams.
Ahh, won’t we all. Well, maybe just me. And Nat.
. . .
On the walk from Waterstones bookstore to the train, I happened to pass a landmark from another book-to-film: the columned walkway next to the Pump Rooms where Captain Wentworth and Anne finally kiss in Persuasion (they're making a new TV version ...with Anthony Stewart Head as Sir Walter!).
Such a romantic scene, in a lovely adaptation. But in real life, the spot was full of hoodied teenagers, smoking cigarettes and yelling and flirting with each other.
No wonder I like books so much.
Labels: UK travel
Let me just say this: Reading Shakespeare sucks -- well, it does when compared to seeing it peformed the way it should be. Forced high school readings and local community productions should be banned on pain of death for making Shakespeare difficult and boring, when it should be bloody (actually and figuratively) hilarious good fun.

There's not much else to do in S-U-A aside from theatre, so we wandered aimlessly for a bit after checking into our B&B, having a pint (or I did, anyway) at the Black Swan/Dirty Duck pub.
And then, to the theatre, where we saw The Tempest starring Patrick Stewart. Not surprisingly, it was very good, as was Patrick Stewart. I thought of Natalie during his shirtless scenes... mmm... hot. And weird.

Set on a cold, ice-covered island instead of the usual tropical one, it looked amazing -- blockbuster films don't look this good -- especially the first bit where the boat sinks and the part where Ariel pops out of a dead whale's body all bloody and gooey with spikey wings ... tho I'm not sure that last bit was exactly how Shakespeare imagined it. (Amusingly, The Observer via google tells me that they were once and maybe still are planning a Tempest video game.)
The next day, after returning to London, we went to the recreation of the Globe theatre on the South Bank to see Titus Andronicus. Our (very cheap) tickets were for the standing room around the stage -- all very authentic. The play itself was surprisingly well done and very very funny. The story (read the summary on Wikipedia, it's hilarious) is very melodramatic and tragic, but the Globe production played it for black humour -- quite likely how it would have been played in Shakespeares day.
So the scenes of gore -- with blood spurting into the standing audience -- were very often played for laughs. Especially the bit where Titus' hand is chopped off. And in the final scenes, Titus is running around with a Chef's hat, laughing manically. Though nearly everyone dies in the finale, I couldn't stop laughing. It was all very funny, in a very black way -- but had I read play, rather than see it here, I'm not sure I would have laughed once.
Photos of S-U-A are here. Oh -- and regarding the title of this blog: There is a touristy thing in town called Shakesperience! And no, we didn't go.
I've now been inaugerated into the ways of the British Festival -- well, sort of. We were only there two nights over the last weekend (as opposed to five) and it was a pretty fluffy festival (so I'm told), but good times were had nonetheless.
Aside from fields and fields of thousands of tents and camper vans, the festival was full of all sorts of crazy, flakey, hippy-shiznit, including booths for massage and gong baths and zero balancing -- whatever that is -- and rock circles and tea tents and lots of shops of clothes and accessories for the modern hippy (who, judging by this festival, is as commerical as the rest of us). The best bits -- for me, anyway -- were the horse drawn carts (because: pony pony pony pony) and the music everywhere. It was just nice and relaxed no matter what you were doing.

But how -- some of you may ask -- can a festival of music, ect, be eco friendly? Think of all the energy going power amps and lights and speakers and stuff? Oh, but they thought of that. All the power used was generated by sun, wind, and in some cases, legs:
Safest way to cycle when drunk! In order to power the speakers and lights at this music tent at night, people had to cycle. If too many people got lazy and stepped off this contraption, the music faltered and died, and everyone groaned. But then someone (including myself at one point) would hop on, and it'd be good happy party times again.
I want -- really very much -- to start a club powered in this way. Imagine the bikes, up on platforms above the crowd, sort of like dancers in cages the way some dance bars have. And then just hire some hotties of both gender, put them in skimpy outfits, and make them cycle for the night. Maybe have a few cycling contraptions for the public to use, too -- and they will, 'cause it's actually quite fun. Anyone care to fund this?
Amusingly, on the way out, the bus from the train station broke down. Not so amusingly -- as we were filthy and sunburnt and exhausted and had to work the next day -- Amir's car broke down on the way home, just down the hill from Stonehenge. I blame the druids.
More pictures (of the fest, not druids) are here.
. . .
Also some photos of the weekend before, when we escaped London to go celebrate Pier and Leila's birthday's at their new house, which is just outside a small town, which is just outside Salisbury -- ie, the middle of nowhere. But, it should be noted, the middle of nowhere is often a very pretty place and very nice place to be.